Inner Isles tour
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Inner Isles tour
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Latest: The next Inner Isles tour will be 2024
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Inner Isles Tour

Where are the Inner Isles?

Map of Scotland and tour areaThe Inner Hebrides
(Tap / hover to enlarge)

The Inner Hebrides are a collection of about half the Scottish west coast islands, covering an area of about 150 miles north to south. Many parts of the mainland itself are culturally part of the "islands" and are sometimes more remote than the islands themselves.

What is the interest in this area?

The fractal coastlineThe fractured coast of the Inner Hebrides

For the visitor, there is beautifully fractured coastline, adding interest to the eye and photograph. It is reminiscent of Maine and Nova Scotia, to whom it was once joined. It is an area that humans settled at least 7000 years ago and for some very good geographical reasons - it has a sweet-spot of environment.

The two Islands of Mull and Iona (which we visit) are rightly well-known: Iona is in the geographical and spiritual centre of the region and it is still a place of pilgrimage; the Isle of Mull is the seat of Clan Maclean and internationaly known for its Sea Eagles, Golden Eagles and, in the waters around, most of the Common Seal population of Europe breeds. On the mainland parts of the region, some of the peninsulas are so remote that they act as islands. It is a landscape that is mostly sea and a seascape that is full of islands.

Who is the tour for?

  • It is for travelers who prefer spending more time in nature than in a vehicle. These are active tours (see Activity Note).
  • It is for those who are interested in the relationship between landscape and the people who live within it, and how that creates the native Celtic spirituality, both pagan and Christian.
  • It is for those who want see parts of Scotland beyond the tourist haunts (indeed, we actively avoid them).
  • For travelers comfortable with boat and ferry trips. It is a sea-kingdom after all.

Slow Scotland, a Connoisseurs' Tour

This is a Slow Scotland tour, inspired by the Slow Food movement, the opposite of fast food: Scotland enjoyed with time, richly and in good company.

How this operates in a tour: Rather than attempting to see all of Scotland, we will stay in one area, covering shorter distances in a deeper, more intimate way by walking, riding or sailing.

This is why it's a Connoisseur's Tour: because you'll be visiting wonderful places that you have probably never heard of (rather than Edinburgh Castle, Isle of Skye and Loch Ness). We aim this tour at the traveller who is or desires to be a Scottish Connoisseur. A quote from the guests:

"Your tour is perfect for the traveler whose desire is to be immersed in the archaeological, historical, spiritual and traditional origins of Scotland."
Debbi Krauss, 2022
"We have enjoyed 3 other tours with Scot. The Inner Isles Tour on Scot's 'home turf' absolutely shined with his love for and knowledge of the Argyle countryside."
Lucinda Glowaski, 2022


The tour areaThe tour area and start-point


The trip goes into some of the more remote parts of the western county of Argyll with a focus on the landscape and the ancient sea-kingdom of the Lordship of the Isles. There will be up to three small-boat trips (weather depending) and three ferry trips - it is a sea-kingdom after all. The focii include wildlife, history and walking the land. We will be staying close to many sacred sitees and you are encouraged to make use of the evening time to return to the sites to make personal ceremony. There is opportunity to create group ceremony too, if requested.
All photographs on this tour-page are taken by us (or our guests) in the tour locations you'll be visiting.

Day 1

Fairy Hill Atop the Fairy Hill, © Hamish Douglas Burgess
KnapdaleLoch Suibhne

We travel west from Edinburgh through the Trossachs. This is an area that inspired John Ruskin and the pre-Raphaelites to paint landscape. We'll stop at one of the best documented fairy hills in Scotland (and yet I've never met any other visitors there). By day's end we'll be in Mid Argyll in an area that is culturally highlands, but geographically has a more gentle landscape, green hills, salt-water inlets and forests.

Day 2 and 3

KnapdaleThe knaps and dales, © Hamish Douglas Burgess
Stone of KilmartinThe stones of Kilmartin
The fractured coastThe fractured coast
Ancient StonesAncient stone circle © Loreen Costa

We'll spend two days exploring the Kilmartin Glen and North Knapdale, areas that I know very well, for I used to live here. Neolithic remains will occupy a whole day for us: standing stones, a henge, burial chambers, 5000 year old rock-art. You'll learn about archaeo-astronomy and perhaps gain an insight into the thinking of our forebears. This is a day to exercise your mind rather than your body.

A second day will take us hiking out into the North Atlantic Oak Woodlands (as important as the Amazonian rainforests), to abandoned villages, remote and uninhabited peninsulas, places that prior to this tour I have never taken guests. And as we go, we'll come across beautifully carved Celtic crosses from the 8th to 12th centuries.

This is a day to learn of Scotland through the soles of your feet: We'll hike a total of about 5 miles each day, on and off, with two steep ascents of a few hundred feet (one of which is optional). The views are spectacular from the summits, but you can opt out and enjoy self guided exploration.

Day 4

Fairy FoxgloveRare Fairy Foxglove on the Atlantic Bridge
Loch CrinanLoch Crinan
Cuan SoundCuan Sound

Today we'll go amongst some of the other islands that make up this fractured coast, either by boat or on foot, weather depending. You'll be in an area that even the locals call "Nether" meaning "beyond". Expect as much sea as land, cliffs and shingle beaches, two hundred year old slate workings, wide westerly vistas, rushing tidal streams...

You'll meet locals that live in fringe communities on remote peninsulas and small islands. Their lifestyle revolves around fishing, farming and tourism.

"Scot's knowledge of the area's visited as well as his stories brings the sites alive."
John Glowaski, 2022

Day 5

Loch BuidheLoch Buidhe, Mull
Solas Muasdail Solas Muasdail, protecting our journey to the isles

Relocating to our next centre of interest, Iona, we will stop en route in the fishing harbour and ferry town of Òban to stock up on mainland things before heading to an-island-off-an-island.

We'll take the ferry then make our way slowly across the Isle of Mull, enjoying the wide vistas, bare hills, deer, Duart Castle, seat of Clan MacLean, and we might be lucky to spot a golden or sea eagle and some Hielan' Coos.

Day 6 and 7

Iona North CoastIona North Coast from Dun Ì
Making Bride's CrossesMaking Brigit's Crosses

Two full days exploring Iona. This 3 by 1 mile island has been a place of pilgrimage for more than 1000 years. Whatever your spiritual or religious orientation, you cannot fail to be affected by this sacred isle.

There are no visitor cars on the island: walking and cycling are the usual method of transport. Most visitors, myself included, report that there is a different pace of time on the island.

We'll visit the stunning beaches on the island with views across the ever-changing sea to the neighbouring rocks, skerries and islands. You'll have time to walk the labyrinth, visit the restored and functioning abbey, the fairy hills and the Well of Youth and make St Bridget's Crosses from the local luachar. You'll also have time to just sit and be. If the weather is with us, we'll take one or two trips by boats to visit uninhabited islands and remote coastlines, hopefully Staffa and The Tresnish Isles. All the activities are optional in this part of the tour. I will lead a five mile return hike to the south of the island on the rough, pilgrims' path.

Day 8 and 9

Calgary Art in NatureCalgary Bay, by Art in Nature
Comtemplating in the HighlandContemplating past lives
Scot AnSgeulaiche Guiding

We'll relocate to the Isle of Mull by taking the fabulous single-track road up the west. It hugs the western cliffs and shore of Mull. Speed is not an option. We'll stop at Calgary beach, a small, almost uninhabited bay, whose beauty inspired the naming of a Canadian city. A good way to see this island is by pony, so, all things permitting, we'll do that for an hour or so (optional and weight limit applies).

Visiting an abandoned village from the 19th century will give you a poignant reminder that the population of mull is a third of what it was 150 years ago. For a change of pace, we'll visit the excellent Calgary Art in Nature gallery and cafe to see this landscape through the eyes of many artists.

We'll spend a half day in the colourful capital town of Tobermory, perhaps visit the distillery or eat some fabulous sea food, hike along the shore a bit, meet some locals, buy the famous Mull Cheese or something from the bakery or chocolate shop.

Day 10

Dunblane CathedralDunblane Catherdral with its 900 year old tower
KelpiesKelpies - the Water Horses

By the time we leave Mull, we'll have visited between 4 and 7 islands and seen dozens more. We'll make our way back to Edinburgh, stopping along the way at a Celtic saint's healing pool, the ancient and pretty town of Dunblane and the Kelpies. We'll get back to Edinburgh about 5pm.

Note: the itinerary is always developing, right up to the last minute, so we may adjust the order of things or change some items to take advantage of weather and local opportunity. The itinerary will be fairly close to the above description. Rest assured that where ever we take you, it will be just right!
Tour Price
£2750 per person, sharing double or twin room,
£3200 solo traveller, single room
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FYI: Tour booking opens around November in the year before the tour. Places are filled by about January and the tour closes for new bookings around March for that year's touring.

What's included in the tour price:

  • Guiding every day
  • A well-planned itinerary
  • All transportation from Edinburgh return, including ferries and boats
  • Accommodation for 9 nights*
  • All breakfasts
  • Evenings of Tales with harp - folklore and history.
  • A picnic lunch (weather permitting)
  • Entrance fees to ticketed sites
  • All applicable taxes

Not included in the above price:

  • Your flight
  • Lunches and evening meals (although some are arranged for you as group meals. Food cost for the week per person is about £180-260, depending on your tastes.)
  • Travel insurance
  • Optional pony trekking (usually around 40 GBP)
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*Everything you need to know about accommodation, deposits and payments is on the TnC pagewhich you should read before booking, while questions about almost everything else tour-related are answered in the FAQ sectionof the TnC page.

Your guides

You'll be guided by Scot AnSgeulaiche, with the possibility of Sam or Hamish or both making an appearance.

Scot AnSgeulaicheSamantha MacKenzie Samantha MacKenzieHamish Douglas Burgess
  • Scot AnSgeulaiche, myself, bringing Celtic history, legend and spirituality.
  • Samantha MacKenzie, bringing her eye for smooth-running detail (and your only guide wearing trousers).
  • Hamish Douglas Burgess, bringing Celtic art and traditional music.

Activity note

As with all our tours, they are active. We spend most of the day on our feet (rather than in a vehicle) with the activity level ranging from strolling through towns to hiking at a good pace into remote glens or climbing rough-pathed, steep hills. A good yardstick to check whether the walking and hiking on the tour will be comfortable for you is the time of your one minute mile walk on the flat: test yourself. If you can walk a mile in 17-20 minutes, you will find the tour about right; if you take the stairs at the office in preference to the lift, then this tour is for you; if you always use the elevator in preference to stairs, then this is not the tour for you.

Other physical requirements: Guests will carry their own luggage between vehicle and accommodation. In some remote places, the next toilet break might be two hours away, with only Nature's Bathroom as your fallback. When you apply for a place on the tour, you will be asked for some health and medical details. This is used by the guides to assess whether you will be comfortable on the tour.